Understand a bit more about the who, what, where and why's of leathercraft.
Refers to the migration of fats/oils from within the leather that crystallize on the surface when they meet the air. The result is a cloudy, waxy or powdery substance on the leather that can be rubbed off or gently heated back into the leather. Also referred to as Spew (but Bloom sounds better).
The thickest, firmest and best quality area of the hide. Found on either side of the spine at the rear of the cattle. Best used for products, such as belts, that require minimum stretch and when firmness and durability are essential.
Also referred to as ‘Pin’ or ‘Tongue of the Buckle’. On the belt buckle, this is the small piece of metal used to secure the belt at a certain length by going through the desired belt tip hole.
Centre Bar Buckle
A buckle that allows the strap tip to pass through the buckle, around a connector bar then back under the buckle. This allows the strap tip to be tucked away and avoids the need for a belt loop or keeper. The strap is attached to a connector bar in the centre of the buckle.
When a leather is tanned (turned from cow hide into leather) using minerals as opposed to vegetable-tanned leather that uses natural ingredients. Usually results in a softer, more pliable leather when compared to vegetable-tanned leather.
A specialist in the leather processing industry. After the tanning process the currier applies techniques of dressing, finishing and colouring to a tanned hide. The leather is stretched and burnished to produce a uniform thickness and suppleness, and dyeing and other chemical finishes give the leather its desired colour.
English Bridle Leather
An authentic vegetable tanned cowhide/steerhide that is made from highest quality grade cow hides. In general, the hide is dyed in drums and contains both the flesh and grain side of the leather. The leather is then stuffed with greases then finished with wax/tallows to allow the leather soften and be comfortable when worn. Originally developed for equestrian use. Used in both our Diem and Opus belts.
Full Grain Leather
The strongest and highest quality of leather which retains all the original texture and markings of the original hide. Both flesh side (fuzzy/furry side) and top grain (strong outer dermal layer) are retained and the leather has not been altered by sanding, correction or being split. It doesn’t get better than this folks.
Leather tanned with the hair intact.
Heel Bar Buckle
A buckle that allows the strap tip to pass through the buckle in a single direction. This style requires a belt loop or keeper to then secure the tip of the strap. The strap is attached to a connector bar at the end (heel) of the buckle.
Leather that is combination tanned - first chrome tanned then vegetable tanned and infused with oils and waxes. This results in a leather that is moderately flexible - less rigid than full vegetable tanned but more rigid than full chrome tanned leather.
Harness leather is hide which is dyed in drums and stuffed with oils and tallows although less than English Bridle. The result is a leather that is stronger and firmer than English Bridle leather.
As materials are exposed to any environment, they come into contact with dirt, body oils, sunlight and wear and tear. On Full Grain leather, this creates a darkening and soft sheen to develop known as a patina. Patina can also be found on other materials such as the solid brass hardware found on our products, stone or even denim.
The term used for the behaviour of leather when stretched or pulled the leather becomes lighter in the stretched areas. A result of oils, waxes and dyes moving within the leathers grain. More common in aniline dyed leather such as chrome tanned leather.
Physical Vapor Deposition. A surface coating process used to form a thin layer on metal carried out in high vacuum at temperatures between 150 and 500 °C. Compared to electroplating, the result is a highly durable, long lasting, scratch resistant coating.
The pliability or softness of the leather. Often referred to as soft, semi-soft, semi-firm and firm.
The thickness of the leather. Depending on where we hail from the thickness or weight of leather can be measured in three main units of measure - mm, oz or inches. Luckily the below chart easily converts all three.
When a leather is tanned (turned from cow hide into leather) using tannins and other natural ingredients found in the leaves, barks, woods, nuts and galls of various trees. Results in strong leather with little stretch. Often referred to as veg-tan leather.